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Saturday, 28 May 2005
filed just before lunchtime by dr_who in: life
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the new york times has an interesting online front page feature about “subversive audio museum tours” available via podcasting: unofficial audio guide to museums done by “art hackers”, student and professors of art taking you on a more critical, but also more original and entertaining tour of museums. the NYT article specifically talks about NY’s museum of modern art (moma) and the audio guides available from art mobs but there are other audio tour guide out there, podguides.net, for example, collects audio tours through towns and cities; the podtrip site has an audio tour for the Burlingame Museum of Pez Memorabilia in burlingame, ca, usa. some more audio tour podcasts sites can be found via podcastalley

checking out the links page of the podguides site i noticed podsites.com…they are using apple’s ipod notes features to create podsites: think web sites for ipods! apple’s ipod notes format allows us to link to other notes files, to directories, to songs, and images (you can even lock the ipod user into the notes application…)

interesting stuff all that.

Sunday, 22 May 2005
filed in the late afternoon by dr_who in: life
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while i really like the digital guardian, one feature of it that i really don’t like is the stupid pop-up window when displaying an article or a page as PDF — i’ve got a really nice PDF viewer (kpdf) and don’t really like embedded PDF pages…so, when i stumbled the other day over the firefox extension greasemonkey it sounded like just the tool to get rid of those annoying PDF pop-up windows.

greasemonkey allows you to write little pieces of javascript that get executed for either specific or all web pages after they’ve been loaded but before they get displayed. actually, “little pieces of javascript” is probably an understatement as one can do quite powerful stuff with this tool. probably the best tutorial is the diveintogreasemonkey tutorial by mark pilgrim. after a little hitch — when specifying the URL(s) for which a greasemonkey script should trigger, you need to specify either the whole URL or a regular expression, just the base URL won’t do — i had my itch scratched. here’s the greasemonkey script that disables the PDF-pop-ups on the digital guardian web site:

// digitalguardiannopdfwindows.user.js 
// version 1.0 // 2005-05-22 
// Copyright © 2005, Dirk Husemann 
// Released under the GPL license 
// http://www.gnu.org/copyleft/gpl.html 
// 
// -------------------------------------------------------------------- 
// 
// This is a Greasemonkey user script. To install it, you need 
// Greasemonkey 0.3 or later: http://greasemonkey.mozdev.org/ 
// Then restart Firefox and revisit this script. 
// Under Tools, there will be a new menu item to "Install User Script". 
// Accept the default configuration and install. 
// 
// To uninstall, go to Tools/Manage User Scripts, 
// select "Digital Guardian: No PDF windows", and click Uninstall. 
// 
// -------------------------------------------------------------------- 
// 
// ==UserScript== 
// @name Digital Guardian: No PDF windows 
// @namespace http://d2h.net/ 
// @description greasemonkey script to prevent digital guardian pages
// from opening PDF in their own window 
// @include http://digital.guardian.co.uk/guardian/* 
// @include http://digital.guardian.co.uk/observer/* 
// ==/UserScript==  
window.openPagePdf = window.openPagePdfLocally; 
window.openStoryPdf = window.openStoryPdfLocally; 

what am i doing here? well, the digital guardian and observer websites use a javascript based layout system to display the digital guardian and observer content. they have two functions for displaying PDF pages: openPagePdf() and openPagePdfLocally(). the former is the one that causes a pop-up to appear while the latter is just opening it — which is what i want.

funnily enough they use both functions for the PDF link: if you open the link by clicking on it, openPagePdf() gets used (ouch), if you open it in a different way (moving focus to it and then hitting the enter key?), openPagePdfLocally() is invoked. as i don’t want the pop-up-window variant, all i had to do was to redefine openPagePdf() as openPagePdfLocally() which these two lines of javascript do:

window.openPagePdf = window.openPagePdfLocally; 
window.openStoryPdf = window.openStoryPdfLocally; 

(the second line does the same thing for story PDFs.

if you have the same itch to scratch, you can install my greasemonky script from here (obviously you need greasemonkey installed first :-)

Sunday, 15 May 2005
filed at around evening time by dr_who in: life
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(nice title, huh? :-) after one last breakfast at the northcourt we pack, say goodbye and are off — the weather is brilliant again after yesterday’s rather rainy day, from easy-vauxie’s CD player the national trust “for ever for everyone” CD is providing a very fitting musical backdrop to our tour via brightstone, the military road, freshwater bay and then yarmouth to the ferry.

usually after two weeks of vacation i’m itching a bit to get back home, get back to work, back to hacking ;-)…this time though (for the first time really), i’m sad to leave — have we fallen in love with the island? hmm.

from lymington it goes back through the new forest to the M27. as predicted two weeks ago by steve, traffic coming into the new forest is heavy — as we drive out of lyndhurst there’s a 2 mile long queue of cars waiting to eventually get into the village.

originally we had intended to visit one of the national trust properties (making use of our new membership :-) but decide not to stuff too much into the afternoon and have a little picknick while still in the new forest…after that it’s a straight drive back via the M27, the M3, and the M25 until we reach the ring road around heathrow airport: the challenge now is to find our way back to the ncp flightpath car park where easycar has its heathrow presence — and it’s literally in the last second that i spot the turn-off from the ring road and the right hole to disappear through. the interesting question (of the day really): will the easycar attendant declare easy-vauxie clean (in which case we get our £10 cleaning deposit back) or will he declare it dirty (and easycar gets to keep our deposit) (and, if he were to ask me, i’d declare it dirty, really) — well, he has a look through, returns, and declares it clean! leaving me wondering what a dirty easycar must look like? half the isle of wight in the boot? enough bird droppings to have the colour of the car officially changed?

we board the shuttle bus to terminals 1, 2, & 3 (for some strange reason terminal 4 is not served), get off at terminal 2, make our way through a seemingly endless maze of underground tunnels to the heathrow express station and then on to terminal 4.

getting our boarding cards is easy due to e-ticketing, getting rid of our luggage is not: we are way to early and have to wait for 50min before we can drop our luggage off — it’s slightly overweight…hmmm…strange, it can’t be those books and souvenirs, really…it’s got to be the accumulated dirt from our walks and that pesky dust from the coastal path! anyhow, british airways is nice and accepts both bags (but puts a heavy! tag on both of them)…then it’s through security, the duty free shop, the pret a manger place for something to eat, and then for one final cider and guinness at the terminal 4 pub.

the flight back (leaving a bit late) is at times a bit shaky but calms down on the last leg to zurich. we arrive after 22:00, wait for 20min for our luggage to reappear and then take a taxi home (a rather jerky, that is, dangerous, taxi driver & a bill of CHF 88.00!). while we are glad to be home again, we are also sad to have left the isle of wight behind…

Saturday, 14 May 2005
filed in the early afternoon by dr_who in: life
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back at the ranch, err, back in the lady gordon suite of our the northcourt.

the roman villa at brading is worth a visit. a large, wooden building sits like a shell over the remains of a roman villa — mainly lots of marvelously well-conserved mosaics. the villa was build in the 5th century by a bloke called pollonius who got “exiled” to the isle of wight after making fun of the then roman imperor caesar gallus aka the caesar the cock — well, originally, caesar the cock had him on death row; luckily for pollonius — and somewhat unfortunate for caesar the cock — caesar the cock had it coming from other people as well and bit the bullet [chewed the sword?] before pollonius was due to go west; the successor in command of the roman empire translated pollonius death penalty into a exilement and sent “poor old” pollonius to the farthest corner of the roman emipire: the isle of wight (so, you could argue that pollonius didn’t go west but did).

what astonishes me is how accurate, realist almost, the artist(s) creating the mosaics about 16 centuries earlier have captured human bodies: in the maid fleeing apollon the back of the naked woman (unfortunately we don’t get a different perspective ;-) looks almost three dimensional — this in contrast to pictures and paintings from later centuries (i.e., medieval art capturing the human body rather crudely, on a kindergarten-level almost). also, the building techniques back then were pretty high-level as well: different tiles for covering a roof and: they were standardized throughout the roman empire! (we don’t even manage to standardize on electrical plugs within europe [“welcome to switzerland, none of your plugs will work here.”]).

we briefly browse through the “shop”, don’t stay for tea in the “café”, and are on our way back to northcourt.

a nice attraction for a rainy afternoon (well, at least part of — unless you are easily entertained like the 2-3 year old toddler who couldn’t get enough of letting crayons roll down the slopping walkways inside the roman villa cover building: he clearly could have spent all day doing this this and loved it :-)

filed mid-morning by dr_who in: life
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the beach house café in bonchurch has, alas, closed its doors for the last time last winter (health & family reasons) — which is a pity because it was one of the nicest beach front cafés on the isle of wight…so we turn around and (with the rainy rain in our back) walk back to ventor: plan B is the spy glass inn

we seem to be just ahead of the crowds (people really start coming in in droves after we settle down, probably nothing to do with us though [i think]) and manage to obtain a nice little table in the back: dorothee chooses a lemon sole, i absolutely have to take the pint of prawns…while we sip our drinks (pint of cider for mrs h, a half pint of guinness for mr h) “today’s entertainment” arrives and starts playing: john grace at the piano!…quite nice :-)

we enjoy our lunch (lots of liberating prawns for me, a very nice sole for dorothee)…the spy glass inn is — as always — worth a visit!

next on our last day agenda is the roman villa at brading…again, stay tuned :-)

filed in the early morning by dr_who in: life
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we are sitting in the 20th-styled rex in ventor (OK place, a bit more pretentious than what reality can vouch for…tables [plastic coated MDF aspiring to be lacquered solid wood reminiscent of an earlier century) a bit on the wonky side: each time i hit the keys the table wobbles along; the pot of tea for two, though, has a very decent size and the view across ventor bay to the south is fantastic!), it’s our last day on the isle of wight today and the weather is very sympathetic: it’s raining…we’ve already spent another fortune at the national trust shop in brighstone (fruit cake in a tin & 2 CDs for me, 3 sets of postcards & a gardener’s tea towel for dorothee), have gone slowly around the south end of the island — having had a look at the haunted manor house hotel where we staid ages ago (lots of house for sale in that part of the island which is surprising because it seems to me to be one of the most prettiest spots of the island) — and have now parked easy-vauxie in the closest pay & display car park around the corner.

as the rain has subsided a bit just a moment ago we decide to go for a walk along the sea front towards bonchurch and have a look whether nice little café on the sea front in bonchurch is still alive — and, if it is, have lunch there…stay tuned :-)

Friday, 13 May 2005
filed mid-afternoon by dr_who in: life
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the weather is a bit more overcast than so far in our holidays, but it’s staying dry — although we had contemplated visiting the roman villa in brading, i somehow have no, null, nix motivation for driving. it never takes any convincing to get my wife to agree to a walk, so that was that then: another walk! we decide to go for a nice lunch to chale to the wight mouse inn…this time we follow the footpath out of shorwell up to westcourt farm and then keep eastwards and on the road through little atherfield, atherfield green, atherfield farm, until we reach the hamlet of pyle, where we have a break on the green (someone else’s favourite spot & view as the bench put up there in memory of him attests — and i can see why…) before climbing the hill and taking the path into chale.

we have another splendid lunch at the wight mouse inn (complete with an apple crumble soaked in custard, yummm!) and then make for the coastal path to follow through this time all the way to shepherd’s chine. the strong, gusty wind that has been with us in the morning now hits us with full force — and makes the walk along the cliff edge a bit of a nerve-testing endeavour. in places the coastal path has crumbled (unfortunately no custard here) away and only half of it is left. the longer we walk the stronger the wind gets, the gustier it beomes. nevertheless the view across the sea and the shore is fantastic. both the sun and the clouds chasing one another across the sky create ever-changing light–shadow patterns on the glittering water…finally we reach shepherd’s chine and turn inwards. shortly before we reach shorwell we have the first few raindrops on the isle of wight this holiday, but before we have time to really get our rain gear out and donned it has already stopped again.

back in our b&b we realize that our jackets and trousers have taken on a slight reddish hue: sandblasted by the wind on the coastal path!

Thursday, 12 May 2005
filed mid-afternoon by dr_who in: life
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today’s programme: safeway at newport (another round at the ATM-fruit-machines), freshwater bay (deposit easy-vauxie at the park & display), dimbola lodge (for lunch), tennison downs (walk), the old fort at the needles (for the ritual viewing of the needles)

as northcourt still does only accept checks or cash and we still don’t do the former anymore (or rather swiss banks don’t) we need to obtain another round of the latter in newport. having learnt from our previous round of playing the zero-armed-ATM-bandits we go for the nat west ATM and also strike gold (respectively, pounds) with the ATM next to it. then it’s a brief sortie inside to buy enough stuff to have a £ 5.00 bill and get free parking ;-) just buying a couple of mineral water packs and some apples (as we did last time) won’t be to clever: we still have one 6-pack of mineral water (each a whooping 1.5l) to go through, so:

  • we start of with today’s guardian, followed by
  • a copy of the latest topgear magazine (very useful as it contains a preview of the highlights coming bbc 2 topgear series [starting may 22])
  • some typical british toffees (“werther’s original”)
  • some apples

…and walk out of the store with a £ 10 bill.

after having stocked up on £-notes, apples, toffees, and topgear magazine — in short: the essential stuff — we are off to freshwater bay via the less scenic route through the north west of the island (instead of along the coast). the weather is, again, fantastic: lots of sunshine and a stiff breeze (“moderate breeze” as we find out later in the lighthouse café at the needles). we make it for an early lunch at dimbola lodge café (one of our favourite places on the island) and then are off on foot across tennyson down to the needles.

despite the fantastic weather very few walkers are out and about, and we have the whole of the downs for ourselves most of the time. the wind is lending a helpful hand and pushing us uphill and we arrive rather quickly at the memorial of alfred lord tennyson. the view is breathtaking (especially if you turn into the wind ;-) but with the very strong wind blowing it’s not really a good place for reading the papers — and we are off again: the needles.

taking a more southern course across the down we approach the the needles battery from the top past the old guards’s cottages. the whole of the needles battery (and tennyson down, really) are national trust property and as we pay for our entry i keep thinking that we really ought to join the national trust one of these days as we enjoy their properties very much and it’s a rather good cause. the national trust’s motto — “for ever for everyone” — sets a much welcomed counter point to most of the one-quarter-horizon thinking and mentality and brings the long now project to mind, another project with a long term view of things.

having seen most of the museum exhibitions at previous visits we head for…the café ;-) from where we enjoy a splendid view of the needles, have a nice cuppa, and learn from the installed wind meter (the kind blowing outside, that is) that we’ll be facing a “moderate breeze” on our way back — although, judging by the force of the wind we face later, i’d argue that the anemometer must have been having a cuppa as well, inside, the wind speed was more that of a “fresh breeze”, really…

after tea we descend from the café (it’s located in the top of the tower) and go underground to reach the headland viewing point for a view towards the needles!

on our way out i decide that now is as good a time as any to join the trust: the national trust volunteer is almost more excited than i am and is very friendly, fills out the forms, hands us the national trust welcome pack (oops, there go another 2 pounds of our weight allowance) and heartily welcomes us to the national trust (and, also refunds the today’s entry tickets).

on the way back we have tennyson down completely to ourselves, which is a fantastic experience — inspite of the “fresh breeze” trying to keep us at the needles…

so: for ever for everyone

Wednesday, 11 May 2005
filed mid-afternoon by dr_who in: life
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mottistone manor must be one of our most favourite places — and we walked all the way from northcourt following the bridleway on top of the downs to long stone and then, almost via the back door, to mottistone manor, with lots and lots of bluebells in the woods around mottistone. the garden at mottistone has been redesigned since we last visited, but we like the new design as well as we did the old. for most of the afternoon we just sit in the garden, look across the mottistone towards the sea, and just enjoy life: paradise found…

unfortunately, paradise closes at 17:30, so we take the 17:32 bus back to shorwell.

a fantastic day. thanks!

Tuesday, 10 May 2005
filed mid-afternoon by dr_who in: life
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we are on a walk around “scenic shorwell and district” — we and about 15 other walkers. it’s the “scenic shorwell and district walk” of the isle of wight walking festival! which started at 10:30 just about 100m up the hill from the northcourt. the weather is quite nice and we get talking with a couple of co-walkers.

even though in the morning i was not very enthusiastic about going on a “mass” walking tour, i start enjoying it — aided by the fantastic landscape and the equally fantastic views we get of pretty much all of the isle of wight (from the northern parts we even have a rather good view across the solent towards portsmouth and southampton).

after about 5 hours, richer by two certificates and two stickers, we are back at northcourt — and manage to beat the other couple who are also staying at the northcourt to the hot water supply (ok, i’m a tiny bit sorry about that, but then the hot shower was really nice after that 5 hour walk ;-)

early dinner at the crown. i try my hand at today’s guardian sudoku — and fare considerably better than last night and manage to solve it (perhaps it helps that i start tonight before and not after the first pint? could there be a correlation? hmm, clearly further research is required…)

Monday, 9 May 2005
filed mid-afternoon by dr_who in: life
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i wake up feeling laaazyyyy…luckily dorothee is sympathetic and agrees to a day in ventnor botanical garden…so, after breakfast and getting today’s guardian we go by easy-vauxie to ventor.

the last time we were on the isle of wight the undercliff drive from niton undercliff to st lawrence was closed due to a rather disruptive landslide in 2001 — and the local paper reported that the question whether it would be reopened was — back then — still not resolved (and the road might very well remain closed, as happened to the niton undercliff to blackgang chine part of the road in 1928), so we were curious whether it had been reopened: at first, while cirumnavigating niton on our way to iow-ventnor the still existing detour signs seem to indicate that the undercliff road to st lawrence is still interrupted — and we dutifully follow the detour signs via wroxall to ventor and then to the botanic garden.

the weather alternates between overcast and sunny — whenever the sun makes it through the cloud cover it becomes quite warm. on our way to the tea room (remember: “lazy!” is today’s motto) we notice a exhibition of local artists and have a look around: quite a few paintings i really like, one i’m tempted to buy but in the end do not (how on earth will i get it home in one piece? and sending it by mail will be a rather costly endeavour considering royal mail tariffs).

after a nice half an hour (or was it in fact, two hours as dorothee claims?) on the sunny terrace we start for a walk through the botanic garden (recommendable as ever) and then follow the coastal path to ventnor: a new apartment complex opposite the church (kingsviews ventnor) is one of the most prominent additions since we last stayed in ventnor. interesting building, mimicking the 1920s/1930s style.

on the way from the coastal path up to the royal hotel we spot a lizard on the walls of zigzag road: it seems lizards only notice you when your moving with a certain speed, anything moving below a certain threshod apparently is considered stationary by those little buggers — i manage to get quite close with my camera and take a couple of pictures (“smile!”)…i’ve never seen a lizard that close up.

after a thorough look around we walk in the sun on the coastal path back to the botanic garden, have a look at the shop (very important) and then are on our way back to shorwell — having a bout of adventurism we decide to give it a go and take the road toward st lawrence and (hopefully) to niton undercliff on the undercliff road…and it’s open all the way! (just not for vehicles over 6’6” in width)

dinner is in the crown again. the guardian has a rather interesting report on the benefits of a “wee dram of whisky” and how it can help reduce the risk of cancer! i wonder how one manages to enrol in research such as this…also in today’s guardian is it’s first sudoku — which, even though it’s labelled easy, i mess up big time…hmm…that won’t do…i blame the pint of murphy’s that’s mingling with a good dinner…

anyhow: “cheers! to research!” :-)

(p.s. you might want to install my greasemonkey script to disable the extremely annoying blinking text on the ventnor botanic garden website)

Sunday, 8 May 2005
filed mid-afternoon by dr_who in: Uncategorized
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the freshwater–yarmouth walk along the river yar is one of our favourite walks on the isle of wight (not too hilly ;-) — in fact a nice easy walk for a sunday…which, coming to think of it, it is! what coincidence :-) so, after a relaxed breakfast we are off to freshwater bay. the weather is quite nice: sunny with cloudy intervals and a little breeze. we park easy-vauxie at the park & display opposite the beach and are off on to the walk.

lunch is in yarmouth in the king’s head: good food, nice pub, nice large tables in the family/non-smoking area (perfect for reading the observer, :-) after a relaxed lunch we walk back on the west side of the yar, the weather is steadily improving and by the time we reach freshwater bay again, it’s breezy but very sunny — perfect ;-) we go for a nice relaxing tea at dimbola lodge.

a perfect day :-)

Saturday, 7 May 2005
filed around lunchtime by dr_who in: life
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an elephant is a mouse built to government specifications. (lazarus long)

today’s walk (weather is still excellent, sunny with the ocassional cloud shooting across the sky) is to chale, to the wight mouse inn!

the walk takes us past the old vicarage in shorewell and up to the ridge running east until we reach a fork in the path, the main path continuing on towards berry hill, the other path going down towards sandy way — which, after an extended break to enjoy the fantastic view across the south of the island, we follow…it’s a bit of street walking until we reach kingston manor and are on footpaths again. the path takes us through a swampy but beautiful reed area but then takes a turn through a bit of foul stinking (and looking) bog (luckily nothing as dramatic as faced by lord peter wimsey and bunter in clouds of witness) and then takes us past corve farm which seems to be occupied by hippies-turned-stale and wannabe-hippies — we detour instead of passing through…and, following chale lane to westside farm take the foot path to chale itself and are soon at the wight mouse inn which has much improved since our visit years ago: it now is a nice inn with very good food and interesting beers on offer. it’s large but cleverly designed so that you enjoy the illusion of “privacy” (at least to some extent).

after a late but relaxed lunch (excellent apple crumble!) we make our way back via a bit of coastal path then through little atherfield and past dungewood farm to shorewell and the northcourt.

i always arrive late for work but i make up for it by leaving early (charles lamb)

Friday, 6 May 2005
filed in the early evening by dr_who in: life
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dsc01371 dsc01373 another splendid day…we are up a bit later than yesterday but still make it for an 8:30 breakfast…our plan for today: a day at the beach! (strangely the elderly couple also staying at northcourt think this an excellent joke…hmm) so, after breakfast we are off to shepherd’s chine passing east of wolverton manor and eventually reaching the coast and shepherd’s chine to the east of the holiday cottage clumb…although still sunny we also face a stiff north-westerly wind and walking on the coastal path is really a windy affair…below brighstone we turn land inwards and around lunchtime arrive at brighstone tea rooms for a late lunch (ploughman lunches, good but not as good as the ones we had at wheeler’s).

the next stop in brighstone is the national trust shop in brighstone with the attached local museum (admission free of charge) — the museum is rather interesting: the history of brighstone through the centuries; quite interestingly done and worth the visit!

…and then the national trust shop: lots of goodies begging to be bought…a couple of quids later, a bit more load in the rucksack, and we are on our way back to northcourt via the downs. a nice walk with lots of excellent views across the southwest coast of the isle of wight…along the way we pass a field with grazing sheep and lambs, one of which, having decided that the grass on the other side of the fence definitely is greener, somehow managed to escape through the fence — only to find out that there are quite a number of walkers coming by (rather scary) and with regards to the greeness of the grass: well, that was a fallacy, really…we get back to the northcourt via the backdoor: the walk ends at the back of northcourt.

today being friday, we go for a late pub dinner. another fantastic day. :-)

Thursday, 5 May 2005
filed mid-afternoon by dr_who in: life
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we are standing at the hole-in-the-wall ATM of HSBC_ in newport: among the many icons advertizing all of its bank, debit, credit and what-have-you cards is the maestro logo, which is the one i need…our b&b unfortunately accepts payment only in cash or by cheque. the word “cheque” — or rather “check” because the swiss are rather US-phil — is useful in a swiss bank only if business is lull and staff are happy to reminisce about the old times (like years ago) but not if you want to obtain a means of payment (well, actually, the do some sort of check issuing, but that seems to involve a lot of poking around in their computer terminals, quite a number of sighs, a lot of head shaking, some more head shaking, and finally the “advice” that they could issue a “bank check” for the small sum of CHF 50.00…well, wow, i mean — that’s a real bargain! so, having passed on this bargain i need to find an ATM that will let me withdraw the necessary funds to pay our landlady. the HSBC has lots of little logos on it and among them is the maestro one — unfortunately, after two attempts, one at each of the hole-in-the-wall ATMs, we come to the conclusion that they must have had a look at their competition, must have seen that those ATMs all had those “little pictures” on it, and must have had decided that their ATMs needed those “little pictures” as well without really grasping that those little pictures mean something: after happily accepting my card(s), my PIN code(s) both machine mull it over, do a bit of slurping, and then inform me that they can’t do anything with my card(s)…by this time i’m lucky that they don’t decided to keep it, retrieve it, and try the next bank…i’m happy to report that we finally strike gold, well, money, at nat west: they not only have the right logos on their kit but also know what these logos mean.

after this bit of ATM-slot-machine-gambling we do some purchases at millets…acquire an interesting sounding book with the title most haunted island at ottakars, stock up on water at safeway, and are finally on our way to: osborne house

osborne house, queen victoria’s and prince albert’s favourite residence is a favourite of ours for two reasons: one, english heritage keeps improving osborne house year after year, and, two, it’s chock full of little details that we end up discovering new things every visit…one thing i found fascinating on our first visit years ago, is the fact that the royal families of europe all seem to be interconnected via the queen victoria and prince albert. the german imperor kaiser wilhelm II was a direct descendent of queen victoria: he was her grandson (one could say that world war I was kind of a family fight on a rather larger, bitter, and acrimonious scale).

new this time is the nicely located restaurant with views across the park and the solent.

dinner is back at the crown inn in shorwell.

Wednesday, 4 May 2005
filed in the late afternoon by dr_who in: life
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there must be at least a 100’000 crows nesting in the trees surrounding the north court: the racket they make is quite impressive. some of them are building nests, some already have occupied existing nests (built last year?), some are just flying around making a bloody noise (and some are bonking around in the trees — the 30m-high-club?). once night falls they just shut up (thanks for that!) and we enjoy a very quiet night which is just fantastic. however, once the sun gets up and about, so do the crows (not sure whether they engage in all of the above enumerated activities already that early in the morning, but, if not, then they sure are great planners as they start chatting and cawing about soon after the first beam of light finds its bleary-eyed way into their trees)…the bed in our room is in the premiere league (certainly for british beds, but also in general): lots of space (not just 1.40m for two of us), & a real duvet, quite nice! and we both slept really well.

after a quick bath (no showers in the ensuite, just a bath with a large cup to treat those parts of the body above the waterline) we are off to an “early breakfast” (well, early for us anyhow) at 8:00 :-)

the breakfast is really good, although one american lady (part of the family party that stayed until today) turns out to be a toast snatcher! while i’m waiting for the rest of the toasts to be toasted (to complete loading the toast rack for our breakfast) she just grabs one of my carefully toasted bred slices and makes off with it! a toast snatcher! not enough that they invade iraq, now they also misappropriate my toast bred!…i silently move the toast rack (and, thus, temptation) out of harm’s way and am soon retreating to our table (not even an “oh, sorry” from mrs harm!)

as the weather is quite nice for walking (that is, it’s not raining) we are soon after on our way (with a small detour via the post-office-cum-shop/shop-cum-post-office to acquire todays guardian) to carrisbrooke castle. the walk starts almost opposite the lower entry to north court along new barn lane and after a bit of up and down leads us up to the the TV mast and then on the high plateau towards the north. things to note along the way:

  • rabbit city with hundreds and hundreds of these little buggers having taking over a sort of embankment-cum-hedges: the whole thing seems to consists of mostly holes with a bit of sand for decoration in between…as soon as we approach, one after the other switches into top gear and makes for the sponged embankment.

  • a rather long narrow path cutting in between fields and meadows to either side, completely overgrown, creating a long green tunnel

  • and, of course, lots and lots of nosey-but-not-that-nosey sheeps and lamps.

we finally make it to carisbrooke castle and enter through the still rather impressive gate and drawbridge…while we study the admission prices, both of us are coming to the same conclusion: £10.60 just to gain admission to the café — both of us remember the previous three times still quite vividly (hence, it’s literally an impressive exhibition) — is a bit dear: “how about we go into newport and have something to eat there?”…and we are again on our way to newport via mount joy which, interestingly enough, is also the location of the one of newport’s cemeteries: either the strong expression of our christian belief in an afterlive with god or the expression of a sentiment by the survivors…we end up eating lunch at the traditional pastry and bakehouse in st thomas square: good food, nice & clean upstairs seating, friendly service…two soups of the day & two pot of tea set us back £8.70 or so.

being quite a bit knackered we take the 7B bus at 15:45 back to shorwell: this is also a school run and, naturally, all kids have to travel on the upper deck — soon we are cruising around the twisted roads and lanes of the isle of wight in a rather top-heavy double decker: at times we come dangerously close to the tilting angle…not a ride for those of us with weak nerves, i certainly am glad when we leave the bus at shorwell; the formula 1, err, bus driver very helpfully assists us in getting to the front of the bus by deftly, quickly, abruptly applying the brakes on the downhill road into shorewell causing us to slide rather than walk to the front and out the door — very efficient and before we have a chance to yell a grateful “thank you!” to the race car driver, he’s closed the doors, stepped on the gas and has disappeared over the horizon, well, ok, around the corner.

Tuesday, 3 May 2005
filed mid-afternoon by dr_who in: life
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after another very good english breakfast at the wykeham arms (i eat unusual amounts of food — unusual for me, that is, as i usually don’t have any breakfast at all), we pack, stow away our bags in easy-vauxie (parked around the corner, remember?), pay our bill and visit the small but good bookshop p & g wells booksellers around the corner (and, coincidentally opposite our parked car) — i succumb to kate fox’s book watching the english: the hidden rules of english behaviour, dorothee yields to a winchester postcard. then we are off and slowly make our way to lymington where we intend to catch the 16:15 ferry to yarmouth on the isle of wight.

the original idea had been (triggered by the discussion of our travel plans over dinner yesterday) to make a stop in lyndhurst…at p & g wells booksellers dorothee stumbles over a small guide to the county of hampshire which mentions sir hilliers garden at ampfield on the way between winchester and romsey: it looks interesting and we decide to give it a go. so, we soon are on the A3090 leading out of winchester towards hursley (where we make a short tour of the IBM hursley lab grounds by car) and thence to ampfield. the garden is about a mile to the right of the A3090 and we reach it shortly after 10:30, the official opening time. the weather has calmed down a bit and instead of the rather hefty showers in the morning we now have only the occasional light drizzle. just having had a rather good breakfast we decide to go for a cup of tea in the café — first though we have to plonk down £7 each for entry (we don’t let our surprise show and bravely pay). after a couple of showers which we wait out inside the very nicely done cafeteria (modern wood construction with lots of floor-to-ceiling window frames all around and fantastic views into the garden and across the adjoining valley) we set out to explore…and there’s a lot to find and discover: trees of all kinds, colorful shrubs and shrubberies, a pond, and — lots and lots of my favourite plant: rhododendrons from all over the world! as they are currently in bloom it’s a fantastic opportunity…and i’m amazed at the wide variety in shape, size, and color. but, to be honest, that statement holds true not only for the rhododendrons but for the garden in general: lots of different colors, lots of different texture! it really is fun walking through this garden! definitely worth a visit!

shortly before 13:30 we adjourn to the cafeteria for a light lunch (good tasting, thick mushroom soup) and then are on our way to lymington. driving on the A3090 (and later the A337) is much more fun than taking the M3 (and M27) and we get to see a bit of the landscape south of winchester & romsey and traverse the new forest from north to south, passing through nice little towns such as lyndhurst and brookhurst.

it’s 15:20 by the time we arrive at the wightlink ferry in lymington, well in advance of our booked ferry crossing — today, though is not really a busy day and we get on to the 15:45 ferry without much ado. the weather has been steadily improving almost since this morning and we have increasing periods of sunshine.

16:15 — we are off the ferry in yarmouth and break for a moment to don our sunglasses as the sun has decided to tag along for the ride to shorewell it seems. the roads are narrow as always on the isle of wight and it takes a bit to get used to it. with getting lost in freshwater (wrong turn taking us back into the direction of yarmouth) we end up taking the better part of 45min to reach our b&b, the north court — but arrive on the dot for our communicated 17:00 arrival time :-)

our landlady expects us, and after a friendly welcome shows us our room for the first night — after tonight we are to move to the lady gordon suite which is currently still occupied by an american party. our b&b, north court, is an old manor house situated in a lovingly maintained huge garden complete with little pond, little stream and a “lost garden” part where one can get lost…our first room is in the main part of the house on the first floor (reached through the huge entrance hall [my apartment probably would fit nicely in there] and an almost stately staircase (“oh, the staircases at rosing…”). the room is quite large, has an ancient bath attached to it (but, alas, no shower) — and is quite chilly. fortunately, we can address the chilliness with the help of an electical fire — and, grumbling, recluctantly it retrenches.

dinner is supposed to be available at the local pub…which we can reach via a short stroll through the almost bewitched looking garden: the crown at shorewell is a rather nice pub and the food does indeed turn out to be quite good (as is the beer and the cider :-)…we spent most of the evening there playing concentration, a “new” game of domino (new for us, that is, but then almost every game of domino with the possible exception of laying snakes is “new” for us) that we discovered when i was searching for the rules for domino the other day (i had noticed that box of old dominoes in one of my shelves by accident) — which is a nice mixture of domino and memory really.

around 22:00 we make our way back to north court and — ! — finally my habit of taking the small torchlight with me on vacation (“we might need that!”) pays out! no street ligths whatsoever, no lights in the garden and we are in the middle of the country side, so it is pitch black dark — “good thing we have that torch :-)”

a very nice day. thanks.

Monday, 2 May 2005
filed mid-afternoon by dr_who in: life
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it was a rather quiet, nicely quiet night. the chapel view room of the wykeham arms is on the back of the saint george house, facing — as the name implies — towards the chapel of winchester college. thus, you don’t get all the street noise (last customers leaving the wykeham arms, garbage collectors in the early hours of the morning, well, between 7:00 and 8:00 — as i said, in the early hours of the morning). the room is very nicely done, the two most important criteria for british b&b met: a proper duvet on the bed (usually you only get a worn down woollen blanket-cum-bed-sheet sandwich that during the course of the night takes on a life itself, discovers its two personalities, both deciding they don’t really get on with one another, both filing for divorce and — not waiting for a proper court decision — separate at the earliest possible opportunity, leaving you and your entangled legs to cope with the dreadful consequence…) and good steady supply of hot water (the norm is a trickle of water from the showerhead [usually the fixed-to-the-wall variant] that changes from rather cold to scalding hot and back within a few nano-seconds)…after a good breakfast we embark on our sightseeing tour of winchester.

the weather — in contrast to the weather forecast (light rain) — is mostly sunny with occasional clouds pushing across the sky and it turns out to be a really nice bank holiday. leaving the wykeham arms we turn left and then right, pass along winchester college and then turn into wolvesey castle, the former bishop’s palace…now all that’s left are ruins…10:45 finds us at the porter’s lodge of winchester college where we wait for the guide to take us (and two other tourists) on a guided tour of the old parts of winchester college (“without the dormitories and the class rooms”). it turns out to be an interesting guided tour and we learn quite a bit about winchester college (not least the fact that one year costs the modest amount of £21’600…gulp)…after a light but excellent lunch (at the wykeham arms, where else?) we join a guided tour through winchester.

our tour guide turns out to be a german lady who together with her british husband has been living in winchester for the past eight years (at first she mistakes us for native winchestrians, and only later does she mistake us for native winchestrians working in germany and switzerland — at which point i give up trying to explain). mostly we cover the same ground as in the morning but learn a few additional titbits.

even song at winchester cathedral is a very liturgic affair: very traditional (except for the prayer for the royal family which they skip) but at the same time also rather impressive on a spiritual level. it manages to set a quiet contra point_ to an otherwise rather busy day.

the evening concludes with a dinner with friends in the wykeham arms: still very excellent food! — oh, and we certainly enjoyed the evening! :-)

Sunday, 1 May 2005
filed mid-afternoon by dr_who in: Uncategorized
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when we get up it early this morning it promises to become a hot day: 27°C have been forcast…we don’t really care that much: we are off to cold & rainy england.

12:05 — hmm…having landed 20min before the scheduled arrival time we are on our way to the ncp flightpath location where we intend to pick up our easy-car: it’s rather hot and humid…nothing in the direction of rain or coldness, not even vaguely!

14:15 — we arrive in winchester and i manage to find the wykeham arms on the first attempt! (which is no small feat: the wykeham arms is located in a twisty little maze of very narrow roads [a bit narrower and i could touch both sides of the road with my arms outstretched…well, almost :-)] and finding the right hole to disappear into is not exactly easy)…unfortunately, the car park in the back is “under construction” (apparently the kitchen is being redone) and we have to park our easy-vauxie around the corner (at first we are way down the road, then later in the afternoon manage to move up to half-way down, and then finally in the evening manage to snatch a space right around the corner: once we’ve squeezed easy-vauxie into that spot [and it must have been the tightest spot i’ve ever parallel parked a car into; i’m rather impressed with myself that i pulled that miracle off, usually, i’m not a great parallel parker and on occasion dorothee has called for a taxi to the curb] we unanimously declare the bazaar closed and decide that easy-vauxie is going to stay put until tuesday when we shall leave for the isle of wight).

after checking in (we get the very beautiful chapel view room in the saint george building across the road from the wykeham arms, facing to the back towards winchester college) we take advantage of the fanstastic summer weather that presents itself outside and walk through the cathedral gate towards the deanery — the deanery’s garden is open today: a wonderful, walled garden, maintained by volunteers under the direction of the present’s dean’s wife (“a keen gardener”) stretching all the way back to the bishop’s place. we enjoy the warm afternoon sun, the occasional slight breeze, the little kids playing in the grass, and, of course, the lovingly restored deanery’s garden.

after a walk about town we return to our room for a quick nap before we meet with friends for dinner at ghandi’s (an indian restaurant, as the name suggests ;-). before we leave i decide to cable-lock the laptop to a cloth rail in our cupboard, forget to tie in the camera — and hit panic stations when the bloody cable-lock won’t open with on the programmed number combination! it’s a nerve-racking 20min during which i try to get the stupid cable-lock to obey its master (or at least the combination i programmed into it) and it’s when i start looking at the mounts of the cloth rail and contemplating getting a philips screwdriver that it all of a sudden yields…pheew! after a quick shower (i was completely drenched in sweat after these panicy 20min) we are off for a short drink at the pub and then on to ghandi’s — we enjoy the evening with steve…the food is OK… getting a jug of water for the three of us turns into a struggle of wills: the first attempt at least produces three glasses of water; attempts two, three, & four are duly acknowledged and duly ignored; finally attempt five seems to breach the no-jug-of-water-wall and we get a nice jug of H2O.

a nice, relaxed day inspite of all the travelling.